Satsuki and Other Trees in Mack's Garden 67Renewal Ist April 2022 |
Workings in the Garden in Winter
Section 1. Pruning the satsuki trees in the nursery
It took me one and a half months to prune the satsuki trees in the nursery. Since I already had sold a lot of trees, I had to finish it much earlier. I wouldn’t like to do so in the early morning because the black sheets on the soil were wet with the frost and I cannot work all days now. But I had to work from 8:30 to 17:30 on Saturdays and Sundays in March because it was so warm that I thought some trees would begin to have a lot of new sprouts. And we had to repot the bulbs of fringed orchids on 14th and 15th because I had hoped to do so as soon as possible lest we should give any damages to the new sprouts.Part 1. The nursery in winter
You can see all trees in the nursery on the left photo which was taken on 9th of January. Though they have thick frost on the leaves, they don’t look like trees in winter because they have a lot of leaves. This small Korin A is very beautiful because it has thick frost on a lot of green leaves on the middle photo. And you can see only some brown leaves. This is a strange aspect in the natural world. This Nikko A on the right photo has the thickest trunk (57 cm) in the nursery. It is unnatural that you can see a lot of yellow and brown leaves on the branches yet though a considerable number of brown leaves fell from the branches on the black sheet.Since all trees in the nursery had a very strange weather, almost all of them didn’t have a lot of extremely long new shoots. And two of them died. Though the left photo is Nikko B which has the second thickest trunk (55 cm), it doesn’t have a lot of extremely long shoots. But it still has a lot of yellow leaves, too. This Hikorin still has a lot of green leaves on the middle photo though it has several brown leaves. This is my first experience since I began to grow satsuki trees in 1972. I thought this was a great problem to the family of Korin because the cycle of growth changed greatly. This middle class of Nikko C on the right photo was transplanted from the pot to the nursery some years ago. Therefore, it doesn’t have a lot of very long shoots and the spring leaves turned to yellow or already fell down from the branches.
Part 2. The satsuki trees before pruning
I had taken these photos on 14th of January before I cut extremely long shoots of the family of Korin short. It is because I thought I had to get used to them in the cold. The left photo is the very large Hakurin A whose figure looks like that in the early November. I thought that if I pruned it drastically at that time the severe cold would give it a great damage. The middle photo is the very large Korin B which doesn’t have a lot of extremely long shoots. It had very much more last year. The right photo is the large Hakurin B whose figure looks like that of Korin B. But all of them have a lot of new shoots which have green leaves.This small Korin A on the left photo was transplanted from the pot to here two years ago after I had dug out a lot of satsuki trees and sold them. Since it was small, I watered it every day in summer. Therefore, its spring leaves are still green though it had several brown leaves. But it doesn’t have any leaves whose ends are brown. It means that it is strong and healthy. The middle photo is the very large Hikari-no-tsukasa which has still yellow and brown leaves. It is unnatural. But you can see Kegon on the right photo whose brown leaves already fell down from the shoots. I think that it is because it is one of weak varieties.
Part 3. Giving fertilisers after pruning
I finished pruning the satsuki trees in the nursery on 17th of March and gave two kinds of fertilisers to them on 21st. It rained on 18th and I gave fertilisers to the pine trees after pruning them on 19th and 20th. And I gave fertilisers to all satsuki trees in the pots on 20th and 21st. I gave a lot of fertilisers around the trees in the nursery. But they are the perfect organic though one of them contains some necessary kinds of trace elements. Therefore, they are very useful: even if I gave a lot of them to satsuki trees in the nursery, they would give a damage to them. You can see the empty spaces on the black sheets on the right photo because I didn’t plant any trees there where I had dug out satsuki trees to sell. These photos were taken on 21st.
Part 4. The satsuki trees after pruning
I would like to show you the photos of the satsuki trees which I pruned drastically in February and March after giving fertilisers to them and spreading the black sheets on the soil. The left photo is Nikko A which has the thickest trunk in the nursery. Since the height is much lower and doesn’t have any large scars on the trunk, I hope that I will be able to sell it expensively. Though Nikko B on the middle photo has a very thick trunk, the bottom of the trunk is a little bit wider. But it has a good style. Nikko C on the right photo doesn’t have a very good nebari. But the taper of this tree is very good though the trunk isn’t very thick.These Hakurin A, B and C are very strong. But they didn’t have a lot of very long hoots last year. Since the family of Korin in the nursery began to have yellow leaves on them, I cut them short on 23rd of January to make the trunk and branches have the winds. Though Hakurin A on the left photo has the very thick trunk and very good taper, since the branches are very thick, too, it isn’t a very good material for satsuki bonsai. Though Hakurin B and C on the middle and right photos don’t have very thick branches, since the trunks aren’t very thick and the tapers of the trunks aren’t very good, they aren’t very good materials as satsuki bonsai.
I had been very busy from 1996 to 2006 in writing a lot of manuscripts about Hamlet and publishing a book so that I might get the title of doctor of letters by it and retired from the chairman of Ise satsuki society in 1996. And I couldn’t have cut the thick branches short or removed them for those 10 years though I didn’t stopped watering them, giving them fertilisers, spraying agrochemicals over them and pruning them in winter. After retiring from Kogakkan University at the age of 64, since I had removed a lot of very large branches, a lot of large trees had a lot of large scars. Therefore, since about half of the trees in the nursery have a lot of very thick branches or large scars, I think their prices are very cheap now. But I am very happy to have got the title in 2007, to have several good materials as satsuki bonsai and to be able to work in the garden now.
The left photo is Hikari-no-Tsukasa which has the very thick trunk and whose height is low. The taper of the trunk is very good and the necessary branches aren’t very thick. It looks like it has all conditions of good satsuki bonsai. But it is a fact that it has a large knot on the front bottom of the trunk. I cannot decide to remove it or not. The second photo is Kegon which isn’t very strong. It hasn’t had a lot of very long shoots since some years ago. But I haven’t found the reason. Though the right photo is Kinsai whose trunk is very thick, it is weak, too. Other 5 trees of large Kinsai in the nursery are the same. Therefore, I didn’t prune them drastically. I think that it is because I haven’t replanted them since I had planted them 30 years ago though they grew large. Perhaps since their roots are clogged each other in the soil in front of them, I think they cannot suck up the water and the fertilisers enough to grow prosperously. It is because the variety of Kinsai will grow prosperously if we give a lot of water and fertilisers.
The left photo is Nikko-no-hoshi whose trunk is very thick. But the right first branch is so thick that I cannot remove it now. Therefore, though the taper of the trunk is very good, the whole figure isn’t very good. The middle photo is Shuho-no-hikari which is not hight and doesn’t have the thick trunk though it is about 43 years old. After having planted it in the terracotta pot for 13 years, I had planted it in the nursery and transplanted it here two years ago. Kozan on the right photo has the same condition as this Shuho-no-hikari has. After a young tree had been planted in a pot for a long time, even if it were transplanted into the nursery, it is a fact that the trunk wouldn’t grow much thicker.
Section 2. Pruning black pine trees in March
Part 1. Black pine tree A and B
I would like to show you the photos of Black pine tree A and B before and after pruning. Though I didn’t remove the moss from the trunks and branches cleanly, since I removed brown leaves completely, they have the clear styles. Though they are 49 years old, since I haven’t given them a lot of fertilisers, the trunks aren’t thick. But I could keep the small styles for a long time.
Part 2. Black pine tree C and D
The style of Black pine tree C isn’t very good. I have to think about the angle of the trunk when repotting it next time. Since the leaves of Black pine tree D are a little bit soft, the whole figure doesn’t look beautiful.
Part 3. Black pine tree E and F
The styles of Black pine E and F aren’t very good, but since they have been planted in the pots for about a half century, they look like black pine bonsai. Yes, bonsai needs a history of long life.
Part 4. Black pine tree G and Nishikimatsu
Black pine tree G has the natural good style because I haven’t grown it large. It is very difficult to keep the small style of black pine. If we don’t change the young thick branches to the thin young ones, they will grow large. This Nishikimatu was given about 30 years ago. Though I have tried to keep the style since then, since a few branches often died and the roots aren’t strong, it is difficult to decide the front side of this tree.
Part 5. Black pine tree H, I, J and K
These photos are the front sides of each black pine tree after pruning. The styles of Black pine H and I are interesting and the tapers of the trunks are good. They are my favourite trees. But the styles of Black pine tree J and K are common and we can see as same styles of black pine trees in the forests as these trees have: they are natural.
Part 6. Black pine tree L, M, N and O
Though I have tried to make Black pine tree L and M have straight trunks for a long time, they don’t have them now. Black pine tree N has the figure which we can see on the field and forest. The style of Black pine O is so strange that I cannot restyle it.
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